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Feline Diseases
Rhinotracheitis is a highly contagious viral disease of cats. It is seen most frequently in kittens less than
1 year of age, but a cat of any age is at risk. The disease often exhibits itself early as a severe cold. The disease
causes fever, inappetance, depression, eye and nose discharges, salivation, and coughing. There is no cure against
the virus itself and treatment is directed at supportive and symptomatic care. Recovered cats can become carriers
of the disease, shedding virus intermittently for the rest of their life. Carriers may or may not intermittently
experience clinical symptoms of the disease. Prevention through a proper vaccination schedule is essential.
Calicivirus is another highly contagious viral disease of cats that affects the cat's upper respiratory system.
Signs and treatment of the disease are similar to those with rhinotracheitis. Recovered cats again become carriers
for the rest of their life and may or may not intermittently show signs of disease. A proper vaccination program
is very effective in preventing this disease.
Panleukopenia (commonly called distemper) is a highly contagious viral disease of cats. Cats of any age can be
effected, but it is more frequently seen in kittens. Symptoms include fever, inappetance, vomiting, diarrhea, depression,
dehydration, weakness, muscle tremors, incoordination, and sometimes, even death. Treatment is very difficult and
is aimed at supportive care. Mortality rates, especially in kittens, can be very high. Recovered cats can shed
virus for 6-8 weeks following recovery. It is nearly impossible to prevent exposure to this virus so prevention
through a proper vaccination program is essential.
Chlamydia is an extremely contagious bacterial infection of cats. Clinical signs include: reddened and sometimes
swollen eyes, increased tearing, sneezing, increased salivation, and coughing. Sometimes the infection can also
affect the lungs. This virus will be shed by a recovered animal and he/she may intermittently exhibit clinical
symptoms of the disease. Treatment involves the use of antibiotics. There is a vaccine against this disease, which
is often included in vaccine protocols.
Coronavirus (also called feline infectious peritonitis) is a viral infection that can cause a wide array of clinical
signs that may include fever, fluid build-up in the chest and abdomen, weight loss, and inappetance. There is no
cure for this virus and cats that become infected usually die within 1-2 years. The risk of getting this disease
is very low. Infected cats are generally from a cattery-type of environment. Transmission of the disease occurs
through sneezing, hissing, mutual grooming, shared bedding and toys, shared water and food dishes, and through
litter and fecal exposure(shared litter pans). There is an intranasal vaccine available to protect your cat against
this disease. The vaccine has been the center of some controversy as critics feel it does not give specific immunity
and protection. The vaccine works by giving local immunity in the nasal passages thereby reducing the ability of
the virus to enter your cat's body. The vaccine is recommended primarily for use in catteries, shelters, and multi-cat
households.
Leukemia is a highly contagious viral disease of cats. The virus is transmitted by direct contact with an infected
cat or by ingestion of an infected cat's saliva or urine. Kittens can also become infected before they are born
if the mother is positive for the disease or becomes exposed to the virus during her pregnancy. The virus can cause
the following: cancer of the immune (lymph) system, leukemia, and decreased ability to fight infection. We highly
recommend all kittens be tested when you first adopt them. A blood test can be done in our office with only five
drops of your pet's blood. You will get the results in just 10 minutes. We also recommend any cat be tested if
it has not been done previously. In kittens or newly acquired cats, another test should be done 4-6 months later
to ensure that exposure to the virus did not occur just prior to adopting the new pet. There is no cure for the
disease and infected cats often have shortened life spans (2-5 years). There are treatments available that can
slow the clinical progression of the disease and infected cats need to be put on antibiotics the instant clinical
symptoms of another infection (a "cold" for example) appear. There is a vaccine available against this
virus. We highly recommend vaccinating any cat that is going to be going outside or for any cat that lives in a
household where there is a cat that goes outside. In cat's that are going to be kept solely indoors, you may want
to more heavily weigh whether to vaccinate as the vaccine can be associated with a rare but serious vaccine reaction
(see "Vaccinating Your Cat" section which follows).
Rabies is a viral disease that infects the central nervous system of all mammals, including humans. It causes altered
behavior (friendly pet may turn aggressive, or shy animal may become more friendly), incoordination, seizures,
progressive paralysis, and eventually death. It is usually spread in the saliva, following a bite or through a
cut in the skin. Vaccination is the best way to control rabies in our pets. Any mammal exposed to rabies has a
risk of contracting the disease and veterinarians have federal and state regulations we must follow regarding rabies
and animal-related bites (both bites to humans and other animals.) Any person exposed to rabies must undergo a
prophylactic treatment and there is no known cure for the disease. This is a disease where an intense responsibility
is present-you have an obligation to protect your family, neighbors, and pets by having your pet appropriately
vaccinated against rabies.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus is a highly contagious viral infection of cats that causes disease symptoms similar
to AIDS in people. For this reason, the disease has been coined Feline AIDS" (but know that you CANNOT get
AIDS from your cat). Transmission of the disease is similar to that of feline leukemia. Clinical symptoms often
include fever, weight loss, inappetance, diarrhea, anemia, persistent upper respiratory infections, and reddened
gums. Exposed cats can either become symptomatic within 3-7 weeks or the virus can become "dormant" in
their bodies and cause symptoms to become evident later, sometimes years later. We highly recommend all kittens
be tested when you first adopt them. A blood test can be done in our office with only five drops of your pet's
blood. You will get the results in just 10 minutes. We also recommend any cat be tested if it has not been done
previously. In kittens or newly acquired cats, another test should be done 4-6 months later to ensure that exposure
to the virus did not occur just prior to your adopting the new pet. There is no cure for the disease. There are
treatments available that can slow the clinical progression of the disease and infected cats need to be put on
antibiotics the instant clinical symptoms of another infection (a "cold" for example) appear. There is
currently no vaccine available.
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Vaccinating Your Cat
Many diseases may infect your cat, even when you are as careful as you can be to limit their exposure. With many
of these diseases, prevention is the key to your pet's lifelong health. We want to help to educate you about these
illnesses and your joint responsibility with us as your veterinary care facility to provide a health-care program
for your pet that will establish a healthy and happy life for your pet. We feel prevention is of extreme importance
and it is often far less costly for you to prevent disease rather than treat them. Many common diseases can be
prevented through routine and complete vaccination programs combined with yearly physical examinations and periodic
testing.
Kittens receive some immunity from their mother during her pregnancy and nursing. Sometime during approximately
6 to 16 weeks of age, this immunity fades and vaccination becomes essential. The exact time when the immunity fades
is dependent upon a number of factors, including but not limited to the immune-level for each disease in the kitten's
mother, individualities of each kitten and the specific disease we are trying to vaccinate against. Our vaccine
will not be effective at providing prolonged immunity to the kitten unless the immunity provided through the mother
is gone. Not knowing when this immunity will fade and not knowing how much immunity the mother passed on to the
kitten means we need to start vaccinations early in case immunity fades early, but continue to vaccinate past the
point when the mother's immunity can remain so that our vaccine works most effectively.
It is important to remember that vaccines will typically provide protection in 95-98% of animals, but no vaccine
is 100% effective. However, with the creation of vaccines, pets are living healthier, happier, longer lives. In
order to provide the best chance for success, it's important to follow the vaccine recommendations given. Delayed
time frames between vaccinations could allow immunity to fade thereby increasing your pet's chance of contracting
the disease we are trying to prevent.
Our recommendations are as follows:
FVRCP-C (Protects against Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, Panleukopenia, and Chlamydia). The kitten will need a series
of these vaccines starting between 6-8 weeks of age and continuing every 3 to 4 weeks until the kitten is over
16 weeks old. We will give you a tentative vaccine schedule specific for your kitten when we see him/her on the
first visit. We will typically vaccinate every 4 weeks, but keep in mind when you are scheduling your kitten's
vaccine that it is better to come in closer to 3 weeks from your kitten's last booster than to wait longer than
4 weeks. After the initial series of boosters is complete, your cat needs a yearly booster to protect against these
diseases.
Rabies This vaccine is mandated by law and can be given as early as 12 weeks of age and all cats over 4 months
are required to be vaccinated. Currently, the laws then require a yearly booster followed by boosters every 3 years
as long as the 3-year booster is on time.
Leukemia We highly recommend this vaccine for any cat that is going to be going outside or for any cat that lives
in a household where there is a cat that goes outside. In cat's that are going to be kept solely indoors, you may
want to more heavily weigh whether to vaccinate against this disease as the vaccine can be associated with a rare
but serious vaccine reaction that can cause a type of skin tumor called a sarcoma (and the condition is termed
a Vaccine-Associated Feline Sarcoma). Only about 1 in every 10,000 cats receiving the vaccine develops this rare
vaccine reaction, but it is a potential side effect and we therefore recommend you consider the pros and cons.
It is also worth noting that there is a great deal of research currently being conducted in the field of sarcomas.
So, new information will likely become available. Cats receiving this vaccine must receive two vaccines at 3-4
week intervals when receiving the vaccine for the first time. The vaccine is then boostered yearly. Kittens as
young as 10 weeks old can receive the vaccine.
Please keep in mind that a new kitten's immunity is not at its peak until the recommended vaccine series is complete.
Therefore, until the vaccine series is completed, you should use extreme caution when exposing your pet to other
animals and unfamiliar areas where you are unsure of what your animal may be exposed.
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Vaccine Reactions
Vaccine Reactions, although rare, can sometimes occur. The protection against disease that vaccines provide far
outweighs the potential risks associated with vaccination. You should consider scheduling your pet's vaccinations
for a time when you can spend several hours with your pet following vaccination. By being able to observe your
pet during this time period, you can contact us should complications arise. Your pet may be slightly lethargic,
have a decreased appetite, be itchy at the site of the injection, and/or run a slight fever for the first 24-72
hours after receiving vaccines. Rarely, a more serious reaction can occur (similar to humans with bee sting reactions).
Symptoms of a more severe vaccine reaction may include: 1) severe and prolonged salivation, vomiting, and/or diarrhea
and/or 2) skin hives, facial swelling, etc. These more serious vaccine reactions usually occur within a matter
of minutes to a few hours following vaccination. If any of these occur, your pet needs to be seen as quickly as
possible as these symptoms can progress to trouble breathing and heart trouble. With veterinary attention, these
side effects can be reversed. Make sure to advise your veterinarian if your pet has experienced a vaccine reaction
in the past as there are precautions that can be taken to minimize the risk of future reactions.
Another fairly common finding after receiving a vaccine can be a small, marble-sized mass at the injection site.
This is most commonly seen in association with rabies vaccines, but can occur after any injection. As long as there
is no overt pain or discharge, this side effect is not considered dangerous. This lump can sometimes persist for
up to 3 months. If it is painful, has a discharge, gets bigger than a large marble, or lasts greater than 3 months,
please call to schedule an appointment to have the lump examined.
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Feline Heartworm Disease
This disease is not new. The first case of feline heartworm disease was diagnosed on a post-mortem examination
in 1921. But, a big problem facing veterinarians until recently was that there was not a reliable test available
for detecting heartworm disease in cats. Because the life cycle of heartworm disease in cats and dogs is different,
and because the number of worms found in positive cats is often less than those found in dogs, the same test used
in dogs cannot detect a positive cat. Heartworm disease is spread to your cat by mosquitoes and can be found everywhere
in the United States. After biting another infected animal, the mosquito carries a microscopic baby form of the
heartworm. When the mosquito takes a bloodmeal from your pet, it injects the baby worm into your pet. Over the
next several weeks and months, the baby worm goes through a series of life stages. After about 5-6 months the baby
worms have become adults that are up to 14 inches long and live in your pet's heart and major arteries of the lungs.
Because of the long life cycle and a relatively low number of heartworms that are found in infected cats, your
pet often may not show signs of infection for several years, often times only once permanent damage has occurred.
If the pet does show signs of infection they could include vomiting, coughing, difficulty breathing, lethargy,
exercise intolerance/tiring easily, fainting, weakness, and/or abdominal distension to name a few.
Worms living in your pet's heart is obviously a life-threatening situation. There is no treatment currently available
for infected cats. However, the good news is that the disease can be very easily and effectively prevented by giving
your cat a prescription medication, called Heartguard, once every 30 days. You should give your cat its heartworm
preventative year-round for the rest of its life. Heartguard is a small, semi-moist chewable treat. This medication
also prevents your cat against an intestinal parasite (hookworms). Kittens as young as 6 weeks can be started on
heartworm preventative and the sooner a pet is started on the preventative, the better chance we have of preventing
the disease. The medicine is for a weight range and cannot be halved because the medicine is not mixed throughout
the entire treat. In order for the medication to be absorbed properly by your pet, the tablet must not be swallowed
whole (so if your pet tends to gulp it/not chew it, you should break it up into small pieces). If your pet is at
a weight that is bordering between two ranges, it is better to go with the larger dose of medicine to ensure your
pet is protected. If you miss a dose of your cat's preventative, give it as soon as you remember and then resume
your regular schedule as before.
Unlike dogs, cats do not HAVE, to be tested prior to being put on heartworm preventative. This is again due to
the different life cycle the worm has in cats than in dogs. However, it is important to remember that the medicine
only prevents against infection. It DOES NOT treat an existing infection. There is a blood test available to test
your cat for heartworm disease and routine screening is recommended because if a cat tests positive, there are
things we can do to minimize the chances of permanent heart and lung damage and the incidence of sudden death.
Indoor cats are at just as much, if not more, at risk of developing heartworm disease. This is because cats seem
to be able to build up an "immunity" against the infection. The theory is that in an outdoor cat that
is more likely to be exposed to mosquito bites, the immunity is higher than in an indoor cat that just gets bitten
once in a while.
Heartworm preventative should be continued during pregnancy and nursing.
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Intestinal Parasites
As unappealing as it is, the truth is that our pets can become infected with worms that live in their intestines.
These worms are most commonly transmitted to our pets by their mother or by ingesting them. It is not at all uncommon
for puppies and kittens to be born with worms that their mother transmitted to them while she was pregnant and
nursing. Some worms can have dormant stages that are not detected in the mother until she becomes pregnant. The
added stress of pregnancy and nursing allows the worms to "come out" of dormancy and infect the mother
and/or her offspring. These parasites can be harmful because they can cause damage to the intestines and other
organs and they also rob nutrients from your pet. Symptoms of intestinal parasites can include a "pot-belly",
vomiting, diarrhea, blood in the feces (sometimes this can cause the stools to be black and tarry if the bleeding
has occurred closer to the stomach), constipation, anemia, and weight loss just to name a few. Sometimes animals
show no symptoms at all. Routine testing (called fecals) of your pet's feces at our office can detect the worms
and medications to rid your pet of the worms it has can be dispensed. When we do a fecal, we are looking for the
microscopic eggs the worm sheds into your pet's feces. Often times you can't see the adult worms because they stay
attached to your pet's intestines and are not passed in the feces. Instead, the adult worms shed eggs into your
pet's feces that are only detectable with a microscope. We recommend two negative fecals in a row at 4-week intervals
in new or young pets to ensure the pet is intestinal parasite-free. Why? Because since we are looking for the eggs,
they must be being shed by the adult worms (baby worms won't be shedding them yet). After your pet has two negatives
in a row, a yearly fecal should be done to ensure that your pet has not become infected since your last annual
visit.
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The most common worms your pet can become infected
with are:
¨ Roundworms (also called ascarids) are the most common worms found. These worms are white or tan, 4-6 inches
long, and are round. People often describe them as looking like spaghetti if they are seen. They can sometimes
be passed in the feces or vomit. Immature larval stages travel through the liver and lungs, which can cause respiratory
problems and liver disease. The adult worms then attach to your pet's small intestines. Treatment involves deworming
the pet with a liquid prescription medication that you give to your pet once every 7 days for 3 treatments. The
medicine smells like bananas and most pets do not seem to mind its taste. A fecal should be done at 4 and 8 weeks
following the initial diagnosis of roundworms in order to ensure that all worms have been cleared from your pet.
¨ Hookworms live in your pet's small intestines where they use teeth to attach. They then suck blood from the
intestines. In severe infections, the intestines can bleed as well and your pet can become severely anemic. Treatment
involves deworming the pet with a liquid (or powder you can mix in canned food) once daily for 5 days in a row.
In some cases, the veterinarian may recommend the treatment be repeated in two weeks. A fecal should be done at
4 and 8 weeks after the initial diagnosis of hookworms in order to ensure that all worms have been cleared from
your pet.
¨ Whipworms are most commonly found in dogs and are the most difficult to completely eradicate as the eggs
are very hardy and can remain viable in the environment for long periods of times. Adult worms attach to a portion
of the dog's large intestines. The worm's tail is very sharp and acts like a whip as it moves inside the intestines.
This movement creates fine cuts on the inner lining sometimes causing infected pets to have bloody, mucousy feces,
often diarrhea. Treatment involves deworming the pet with a liquid (or powder you can mix in canned food) once
daily for 5 days in a row. In Some cases the veterinarian may recommend the treatment be repeated in two weeks.
A fecal should be done at 4, 8, and 12 weeks following the initial diagnosis of whipworms in order to ensure that
all worms have been cleared from your pet.
¨ Tapeworms are transmitted to your pet by ingesting a flea carrying an infective stage of the tapeworms. Tapeworms
live in the small intestines and can be several feet long. The worm is composed of a bunch of segments. Each segment
is basically a reproductive factory, harboring bunches of eggs. As the eggs mature, a segment from the end of the
worm is shed and passed in the feces. When initially shed, these segments may move and look like little white inchworms
or maggots around your pets tail, anus, or in your pet's feces. As the segments dry out, they no longer move and
become little white flakes, which many owners describe as looking like rice. Because the eggs are usually retained
within these segments, eggs may not always show up on a fecal test so these worms are more frequently diagnosed
by the owner seeing the segments. Sometimes an entire worm can be passed or a bunch of segments may pass while
still attached. In these instances, you would see a long, flat white or tan worm that looks like it has had slice
marks put on it. Treatment of tapeworms involves giving your pet a pill by mouth at the time of diagnosis and again
30 days later. Further chances of re-infection can be decreased by controlling fleas on your pet and in the environment
(See "About Fleas and Controlling Them").
¨ Coccidia are intestinal parasites that are actually not worms but rather a single-celled organism called
protozoans. They can cause diarrhea, vomiting, weight loss, and/or anorexia. Some animals show no symptoms at all
until infections become very progressed. Treatment includes giving your pet either a pill or a liquid by mouth
once daily for 10 days in a row. A fecal should be done at 4 and 8 weeks following the initial diagnosis of coccidia
in order to ensure that all worms have been cleared from your pet.
After your pet receives a deworming medicine, you may see worms in their feces and/or vomit and your pet may have
some diarrhea (especially if we are treating for roundworms and or tapeworms). This is just do to the dead worms
being passed and is nothing to be alarmed about.
Another cause of diarrhea (and sometimes even vomiting) is flagellates. These are single-celled organisms that
invade tyour pet's intestinal tract. We diagnose them by looking at a smear of your pet's feces under the microscope.
If diagnosed with this, we will put your pet on a medicine that you will give to your pet by mouth once or twice
daily for approximately 10 days.
Pet owners should be aware that some intestinal parasites could also be infective to humans. The worm must be at
a particularly infective stage for this to occur and human infection usually involves ingestion. Children are therefore
most commonly infected as they seem to constantly put their hands in their mouths. Prompt removal of feces, washing
hands, and covering sandboxes are usually sufficient to prevent human infection.
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About Fleas and Ticks and Controlling Them
The flea has a lifespan of 6-12 months. Each female flea can lay up to 2000 eggs at a time!!! Fleas actually spend
about 80% of their time off your pet, only hopping on him/her to take a blood meal. Therefore, if treatment is
only directed at the pet, the flea problem will be more difficult to control.
The life cycle of the flea takes 4 steps. The adult female lays eggs that become larva. The larva then becomes
a pupa encased in a cocoon. Finally the pupa becomes an adult. The eggs, larval and pupal stages of the life cycle
are not affected by baths and dips, and are often very difficult to eliminate with sprays and foggers, especially
if allowed to progress to the pupal stages which can stay dormant in adverse environments for very long time periods.
To determine if your pet has fleas, use a flea comb or fine-toothed barber's comb to survey your pet's coat for
fleas or flea dirt. The tines of a flea comb are small enough to trap fleas and flea dirt. If you catch a flea,
you can kill it by dipping the comb in soapy water. Flea dirt looks like dark black specks of "dirt",
but it is really dried blood left behind by feeding fleas. If your pet is small, comb it on a white washing machine
or dryer so that you can see the dark fleas and flea dirt easier. If your pet is too big to lift, put a white sheet
or towel under them and brush. You can often also diagnose fleas in a heavy flea infested environment by placing
a flat dish of soapy water on a white sheet or towel under a light on the floor of a room where the dogs usually
sleeps. Fleas will be drawn to the light and will be visible on the sheet and drowned in the soapy water. Precautions
must be used to prevent electrical and house fires.
In addition to their pesky ability to cause frustration, fleas can cause medical problems in your pet. A flea's
saliva can cause a severe allergic reaction, resulting in extreme itching, scratching, chewing, or nibbling of
the skin. Fleas can also transmit a type of intestinal parasite called tapeworms (please see the section in this
book called "Intestinal Parasites"). Should any of these symptoms occur in your pet, please call us for
an appointment.
The good news is that fighting fleas and ticks is safer, easier, more effective and convenient today than ever
before. Please take advantage of the following wonderful products and let us help rid you and your pet's life of
fleas forever. Your pet will love you for it!!
· Program is a once-a-month tablet or liquid (an injection we give once every six months is also available
for cats) given to your cat at mealtime. When the flea bites your pet, it ingests some of the medicine. The medicine
then works within the female flea to change the shell composition of her eggs so that they are unable to hatch,
thereby breaking the flea life cycle. meal once-a-month or an injection we give once every six months is also available
for cats) given to your pet at mealtime. When the flea bites your pet, it ingests some of the medicine. The medicine
then works within the female flea to change the shell composition of her eggs so that they are unable to hatch,
thereby breaking the flea life cycle. It is a very safe and convenient way to control flea infestations, since
it breaks the life cycle right at the beginning. Program is extremely safe and can be started in puppies and kittens
as young as six weeks and can be used in pregnant or nursing pets. Program is not an insecticide so it is safe
for your family members as well, and alleviates concerns about using insecticides in the home and environment.
If your pet already has fleas, it will take longer for Program to break the life cycle because it can take 30-90
days for eggs that have already been laid to hatch and develop into adults. Once the life cycle is broken, continuing
to use Program year-round will prevent the life cycle from starting again.
Please note: program is safe to use in conjunction with heartworm preventative. Also, the effective cat dose of
Program is 3 times larger than in dogs. Therefore, the weight on the packet of tablets is for dogs not the smaller
cats, but if it is easier to pill your cat or if you have multiple cats that are difficult to separate during feeding,
we can prescribe the tablets or you can bring your cat into our office to receive the program injection every six
months.
· Advantage is an odorless liquid that you apply every 30 days to a small area of skin over your cat's neck
or dog's shoulder blades. On larger dogs it is applied over several spots on the dog's back. The product has a
special carrier mechanism that takes it to the base of eachhair on your pet where it quickly dries and lasts for
approximately 30 days. The flea does not have to bite your pet for this product to work (the medicine gets absorbed
through the flea's skin), thereby helping to avoid the itching commonly caused by flea bites. Advantage works by
affecting the flea's nervous system. The flea is paralyzed and therefore dies within 12 hours of the flea hopping
on your pet. Recent research also shows that as the animal sheds, the medicine is shed with it and can act as a
means of helping to kill fleas in the pet's environment (carpet, floors, etc.) Advantage is extremely safe for
your family members and your pet and can be started as early as 6 weeks in puppies and 8 weeks in kittens. It is
also extremely easy to use and much more convenient and long-lasting than bathing and dipping. If your pet is frequently
bathed or goes swimming (more than about once a week), Advantage may need to be applied slightly more frequently
than every 30 days in order to continue achieving greater than 90% effectiveness.
· Frontline/Topspot is an odorless liquid that you apply to a small area of skin over your pet's neck. Topspot
can kill fleas for a period of 6-12 weeks in dogs and 4-10 weeks in cats, and ticks for a month. After application,
the medicine will spread in the oils of the skin over the pet's body and is protected by the hair follicle and
old gland making it is protected from removal by shampooing or swimming. Once the product is spread over the pet's
body (a process, which can take up to 24 hours to complete), fleas and ticks are killed within 24-48 hours. Topspot
can be applied to puppies and kittens as young as 12 weeks of age. This product is extremely easy to use and much
more convenient than bathing or dipping. If your pet is frequently bathed or goes swimming (more than about once
a week), Topspot may need to be applied slightly more frequently than every 30 days in order to continue achieving
greater than 90% effectiveness.
A word on flea and tick collars…for the most part, we do not find other brands of collars to be effective and often
find fleas and ticks on pets wearing them. It is for this reason that when it comes to controlling fleas and ticks,
our recommendation is that all pets be put on Program when they are young, or in older pets, before a flea infestation
exists. It is extremely safe and effective at keeping the flea population at a minimum and because it works by
breaking the life cycle, it is most effective if used year- round. Using year-round is also most cost effective
because once the life cycle is broken, there is no need to treat the environment with sprays and foggers.
If you see fleas or ticks later in the year, we recommend continued use of Program year-round to prevent a major
infestation and then adding Advantage or Topspot in order to kill the adult fleas and ticks. Using Advantage or
Topspot is much more convenient and effective than bathing and/or dipping, since most flea and tick shampoos and
dips will only kill the fleas and ticks that are on your pet at the time of the bath/dip and they rarely have any
repelling effect afterwards. By using Program in conjunction with Advantage or Topspot, you will be able to kill
adult fleas and ticks that are picked up from the environment, while also preventing fleas from laying viable eggs
in your house before they are killed by the Advantage or Topspot.
If your pet already has fleas or has a severe and/or long-standing infestation, the Program combined with Advantage
or Topspot protocol we recommend will work to eliminate the fleas but it will take longer because the pre-adult
stages will be in the environment already. Here are some things you can do to expedite the elimination process:
· Bathe or dip all household cats or dogs
· "De-flea" the pet's environment, including bedding, furniture, flooring, etc. by vacuuming to
pick up fleas, eggs, larva, and pupa. As soon as into your you have vacuumed all areas your pet frequents, throw
the bag away in a trash can OUTSIDE in order to prevent them from "escaping" back house.
· Use of fogging/spray types of insecticides and growth regulators in the yards and/or home.
· In extremely sever cause, an exterminator may have to be called in to help
(The latter 2 of the above have virtually become rarely necessary because of Program, Advantage, and Frontline/Topspot.)
Now a word on ticks…Ticks are a nuisance for your pets and family. Not only do they cause blood loss, irritation
and infection where they attach, they may also transmit to your pets and family certain disease, such as Lyme disease,
Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Ehrlichiosis and Tick Paralysis. Both female and male ticks are blood- sucking parasites.
Although they often feed for 4-5 days, after a blood meal they usually detach and fall to the ground, where they
find a dark, warm and humid spot to hide and for the female to lay her eggs. Unlike fleas, in which only the adult
stage is parasitic, all tick stages can feed on you or your pet.
When a tick attaches to your pet, they inject something into your pet's skin to keep the blood from clotting as
they are ingesting it. Because of this, some animals will have a local tissue reaction to the tick bite. The reaction
looks like a red, raised bump right around where the tick was attached. This reaction usually remains for 5 - 14
days and sometimes even longer. As long as the reaction does not have a discharge or cause overt pain to your pet,
it is not considered serious. You can apply some triple antibiotic ointment (neosporin) to the area 2 - 3 times
daily.
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Bathing
For the most part, cats do not require, nor tolerate, baths. Cats groom themselves and tend to be very "tidy".
Should your cat get something on its fur that it cannot or should not lick and clean off, the best ting to bathe
a cat in is either liquid Ivory or Dawn dish soap. These are very mild cleaners that are not irritating or toxic
to the cat. Dawn works well to remove oil/grease. And by using the medicines described above for flea and tick
control, bathing and dipping to rid your cats of these pests is no longer necessary!!! If your pet has a medical
need for more frequent bathing, we can suggest some shampoos available at our office.
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Nutrition and Feeding
You should feed your kitten a kitten food until 9 months of age. Kitten foods have higher levels of vitamins and
minerals that young kittens need to grow and develop bones and muscles. At 9 months old, you should buy adult food
and slowly start to mix the adult food into the kitten food. You will do this for the next 3 months - slowly increasing
the quantity of adult food while decreasing the kitten food. At one-year old, your pet can be fed exclusively adult
food. This gradual change allows the pet's intestinal system to adjust to the new food and usually prevents stomach
upset and diarrhea.
In general, premium foods will provide the best food source to your pet as these foods tend to use fewer by-products
than foods purchased at a grocery store. Premium foods often are also available in life-stages that you can use
for your pet's different age needs (kitten, adult, and senior formulas). These foods allow you to change your pet's
food to a different life-stage without completely having to change brands and the food change therefore seems to
be accepted by your pet better, both mentally and physically. Examples of premium foods include Hill's Science
Diet, Iams, and Eukaneuba. If you choose to purchase food from a grocery store, try to avoid "generic"
foods or the store's name brand food as we typically find these can cause gastrointestinal upset. Also, we again
recommend you select a food that comes in different life-stage formulas.
The dry vs. canned issue is often of concern. In general, it does not seem to greatly matter which your pet eats.
We see just as many animals with dental disease that eat canned foods as we do that eat dry food. In some instances,
your pet may develop a specific health problem which could require a specific food. In these circumstances, we
will discuss what is best for your pet at that time.
How much food should you feed? In general we do not like to give a set amount since, just like humans, each animal
will have different metabolic and individual needs. In general, you should feed your pet the amount they can eat
in a 15 minute span without having it gone instantly, but also not have a bunch left over. Also, another useful
tip to use to evaluate if the amount you are feeding is okay for your pet, you can evaluate their body structure.
You should be able to feel the ribs without seeing deep indentations between each rib. If you can see indentations,
you need to increase the food amount you are feeding. If you cannot feel your pet's ribs when just gently touching
the rib cage, then your pet is becoming too heavy and you should slightly decrease the amount of food you are feeding.
If you feel your pet is too heavy or too thin despite what you feel is appropriate feeding, please make an appointment
for your pet to be examined, as there are many metabolic diseases that can show such symptoms.
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Dental Care
Your kitten has "baby" teeth that will be replaced by an adult set of teeth. The baby teeth generally
start to become loose and fall out when your kitten is approximately 12 weeks of age and are all out by about 16-20
weeks of age. If the baby teeth are not all gone by the time your pet is 6 months old, we recommend they be pulled
while your pet is anesthetized for his or her neuter in order to prevent complications that could arise from the
baby teeth not falling out. This second set of teeth is your pet's permanent set of teeth that they will need for
their lifetime.
Dental disease can be serious problem, which can result in pain (especially when your pet eats), difficulty eating
when trying to get the food from the food bowl into his/her mouth, tooth loss (teeth may fall out or need to be
extracted), bad breath, abscesses on the face, and reddened gums. With serious dental disease the bacteria in the
plaque can get into the bloodstream and cause infections in your pet's other organs such as the kidneys, heart,
lungs, and liver. Many of these problems can be avoided by starting your pet on preventative dental care at home.
To limit plaque and tartar build-up on your pet's teeth and to prevent the need for repeated cleanings (and anesthesia)
in our office, we recommend routine brushing, feeding special treats, and yearly physical exams.
First, we recommend brushing your pet's teeth with a fingerbrush and toothpaste specifically formulated to reduce
bacteria typically found in animal mouths. The fingerbrush fits over your finger like a thimble and is therefore
often not viewed as a chew toy or a scary object coming at your pet's mouth. Daily brushing is best, but any brushing
is better than none.
Secondly, there are specially designed treats called T/D that have special enzymes in their formula that stick
to the teeth and help decrease bacteria and plaque formation. T/D is actually a food, but we do not feel it is
balanced enough to be fed exclusively. They do however work wonderful as treats.
Finally, there is a product called Maxiguard Gel, which can be applied to your pet's teeth weekly to prevent plaque
build-up. This product works well, but brushing and/or using the T/D treats seem to prevent plaque build-up better.
Maxiguard Gel is a better alternative for pets who will not tolerate having their teeth brushed and/or for owners
who can honestly not add yet another task such as brushing their pet's teeth to their already busy schedules!
There are other products, such as mouthwashes, which may be recommended for your individual pet's dental care program.
You should begin a dental program as soon as possible since your pet needs to be trained to accept having its teeth
brushed. With time and patience most animals learn to accept, and even like, having their teeth brushed.
Sometime during the course of your pet's life, we may recommend that your pet have a dental cleaning performed.
This means that your pet will need to be anesthetized so that the teeth can be cleaned with an electronic scaler
to remove existing plaque and tartar. The teeth will then be polished to make the surface smooth and completely
clean. This procedure can be more fully explained to you should the need for a dental arise in your pet.
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Ear Care
For the most part, animal's ears d not require much care. Their ears are shaped differently than human's. Animal
ear canals are shaped like an "L" (there is a vertical canal then a 90º bend followed by a horizontal
canal and then finally, the eardrum). Here are some tips about ear care for your pet:
v DO NOT put peroxide, water or alcohol in your pet's ears. Water/moisture in the ear provides a good environment
for bacteria and yeast to grow. Peroxide breaks down into hydrogen and water thereby promoting moisture. Alcohol
can be too drying and can "sting" your pet if the ear is irritated or infected. For routine cleaning
of the ear, we recommend a product called Epi Otic. It helps to clear moisture and breaks down wax that can build
up deep within the canal. To clean the ear, fill the canal with the Epi Otic until some drips out then massage
the base of the ear (where the ear "attaches" to the head). Then, let the animal shake its head (best
to clean ears either outside or in a bathroom where clean-up is easier). By allowing the animal to shake the cleaner
out, any was or debris from deep within the canal will also be shaken out. You SHOULD clean the ear with the Epi
Otic after baths.
v If your cat is shaking its head, rubbing/pawing at its ears, or has smelly ears, your pet should be examined,
as these are all potential signs of an ear infection or problem. Infections in the ear are usually due to mites,
bacteria, and/or yeast. Specific medications for each can be dispensed at our office should the need arise in your
pet.
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Neutering vs. Breeding
Cats are generally sexually mature enough to breed between 6-9 months of age. Most females will have their first
heat cycle around this time. During her heat, your cat may become more friendly, less friendly, eat less and become
very vocal (meow a lot). No bloody vaginal discharge is typically seen. She will typically have a heat cycle every
3-4 weeks. This heat cycle can last for as little as 5 days or as long as a month. Male cats are able to breed
throughout the year and will often be prone to roam in search of a mate.
We recommend having your pet neutered when it is approximately 6 months old. We select this age because it takes
this long for a vaccine series to be complete and for the immunity from the vaccines to reach their peak. With
each vaccine, your pet receives a physical exam so we will have had several opportunities to evaluate your pet
for potential surgical risks.
When your pet is neutered, they only need to be at our hospital for the day. Anesthetic will be given throughout
the process so that they will be completely asleep and feel no pain during the procedure. In females, the entire
uterus and both ovaries are completely removed in a procedure called an ovariohysterectomy (more commonly called
spaying). In males, both testicles are removed in a procedure called an orchiectomy (more commonly called castration).
For the female, several layers of stitches are placed under the skin that will slowly dissolve over the next 2-4
weeks. Skin stitches are placed which will need to be removed in about 10 days following the surgery. In some cases,
skin glue may be used, thereby alleviating the need for stitch removal. The decision to place skin stitches or
not is decided on a case-by-case basis. For the male, no skin stitches are placed. Given this, there can be a small
amount of bloody discharge from his incision site for several days following surgery.
There are many good reasons to neuter your pet. In females these include:
¨ Eliminates risk of developing an infection in the uterus called a pyometra after each heat cycle. With this
infection the uterus fills with pus and can cause widespread infections in other organs and in the bloodstream.
¨ Eliminates chance of developing uterine and ovarian cancer since those organs are completely removed.
¨ No need to have to confine the female during what would otherwise be her heat cycles.
¨ Decreases behavior problems that can be triggered by the hormones associated with heats.
¨ Minimizes the problem of overpopulation and unwanted kittens.
¨ Minimizes territorial scent marking and spraying.
Reasons supporting neutering a male cat include:
¨ Minimize inter-male aggression and sometimes decreases aggression towards humans.
¨ Limits wandering in search of a female mate.
¨ Minimizes territorial scent marking and spraying.
¨ Minimizes the problem of overpopulation and unwanted kittens.
Neutering will NOT change your cat's disposition, personality, or intelligence.
Neutering will NOT cause your cat to become fat and lazy. This is something that happens due to overfeeding and
decreased exercise in any pet. This problem can be especially evident in cats. As they age they tend to become
more sedentary, whether neutered or not.
When trying to decide whether to breed or neuter we ask you to consider the above benefits of neutering combined
with the commitment it will take to breed your cat and raise the offspring. You should evaluate your cat critically.
Does it have a good temperament? Does it have good structure and soundness? Does your pet have other conditions,
which could be passed on to the offspring (eye problems, inheritable bleeding disorders, etc.)?
If you decide to breed your cat, we recommend waiting until the female is at least 1 ½ years old to allow
her to become more mentally mature to deal with a litter of kittens. Make sure she is up-to-date on her vaccines
so she will be able to provide good immunity to her kittens during gestation and nursing. The FVRCP-C (distemper
combination) vaccine cannot be given during pregnancy so if she will be coming due for it during that time, it
should be boostered PRIOR to her conceiving.
Immediately before breeding you should have your veterinarian check your cat for:
1) feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus AND 2) intestinal parasites
She should be fed a kitten food during breeding, gestation, and nursing to give her the extra nutrients required
during this stressful time. She should be fed a kitten food until 4 weeks after the kittens have been completely
weaned. After 4 weeks you should slowly reintroduce her to her regular adult food over the next 4 weeks (slowly
decrease the amount of kitten food while slowly increasing the amount of adult food).
Once the female has conceived you will need a queening box to contain the kittens in and give the mother a place
to quietly be with her kittens. The kittens will be born approximately 63 days following conception. Radiographs
can be taken about 54 days into gestation to determine the minimum number of kittens. This is recommended so that
you will know the minimum number of kittens she should deliver. If she does not have this number and begins to
show signs of trouble delivering any more kittens, you will then know for sure that she needs to be seen by a veterinarian.
A count of the kittens can be done earlier using ultrasound.
During the delivery, you should be present in case she develops complications, but you do not want to "hover"
because this may make her nervous and could slow delivery and make her too anxious to properly care for her new
kittens. On the day or day after of whelping, the veterinarian may recommend bringing her into the office for an
injection called oxytocin. This helps uterine contractions, clears out any remaining placentas, and can minimize
chances of uterine infection.
When the kittens are 3-4 weeks old you can start to offer them watered down canned food. The kittens can be completely
weaned between 6-8 weeks of age and are ready to go to their new homes at 8 weeks old. The kittens should receive
their first FVRCP-C (distemper combination) vaccine at 6-8 weeks old.
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To Declaw or Not To Declaw
Many cat owners elect to have their cat declawed in order to protect furniture and/or family members (especially
children) from being scratched. In general, we recommend this be done at the same time as neutering so that your
cat only has to experience one anesthetic procedure. If the cat is just being too destructive and you cannot wait
until the recommended age of 6 months, the declaw and neutering can be done earlier. We prefer waiting until 6
months of age because at this age, the animal is at a safer weight to "handle" anesthesia and we also
will have been able to complete your pet's vaccine series and perform several physical exams to evaluate your cat's
health.
When we declaw a cat, the entire nail including the bone back to the first "knuckle" joint is removed.
Surgical glue is used to close the skin and bandages are placed on the paws overnight. The next morning, the bandages
are removed and the cat will be able to go home that afternoon. The paws can remain tender for the next 2 weeks
(and sometimes even for 3-4 weeks, especially in cats over 1 ½ years old). At home, it is very important
to limit your cat's activity and to not allow it to jump onto/off of heights and/or hard surfaces. It is also important
NOT to use regular clay or clump litter for the next 2 weeks. These litters tend to irritate the incisions and
can cause the incisions to open and become infected. We recommend a special litter called "Yesterday's News".
This is "litter" made out of recycled newspapers compressed into pellets. The other alternative is to
use shredded newspaper in the box. The "Yesterday's News" is often a better choice because the cat can
still dig/scratch in the "litter" and bury, etc. Therefore, it is generally accepted better by the cat
than just shredded newspaper.
There are pain medicines available to your cat that can minimize the post-surgucal pain associated with a declaw.
The medicine is started by us giving your cat an injection before it wakes up from the anesthesia and is continued
with a tablet given to your cat by mouth 3 times daily for 7-10 days following the declaw.
There are several alternatives to declawing. They include:
1) Tendonectomy With this procedure, the nail is not removed. Rather, the tendon that allows the cat to stick their
claws out is cut. Therefore, the cat cannot scratch at something. But, if the cat is sitting on something and jumps
off (for instance a child's lap or waterbed), some scratching can still occur. Some people believe that this procedure
is generally less painful because a tiny incision is made under the foot just behind the toe pads and no bones
are removed. Surgical glue is used to close the incision. Aftercare is the same as for a declaw. The recovery time
is often shorter than for a declaw (about 1 week). However, you MUST trim your cat's nails on a regular basis (every
3-4 weeks) because they cannot be worn down and will get long enough to get caught in things (draperies, carpet
fibers, etc.). Also, if not trimmed, the nails will start to curl under the cat's paws and "grow" into
the underside of the foot.
2) Soft Paws These are soft rubber nail caps that you glue over your cat's claws (similar to fake finger nails).
They last a varied amount of time depending on each cat, but generally last about 2-4 weeks.
3) Training to use a scratch post and not to use the furniture. Encourage your cat to use the scratching post by
putting it in its favorite place (ie. not in a secluded area). Select an appealing surface such as carpet, cork,
rope, or wood. Make the post appealing by attaching toys and possibly rubbing a small amount of catnip onto the
surface. Reward your cat (with verbal praise, physical contact, and, if you choose, a small food treat) whenever
it approaches the post. Doubly reward the cat when it uses the post for scratching. Make scratching of inappropriate
object temporarily unappealing. Covering it with plastic or foil often works. Also, use of a verbal command, such
as "No scratch", will help and the cat will hopefully learn to respond to the command alone in the future.
For more persistent cats, squirting it with a water bottle, a blast of air from a compressed air can, or shaking
a jar of pennies at the time the cat is inappropriately scratching are "shock" factors that you can use
in conjunction with your verbal discipline. Again, the hope is that the cat will learn not to scratch at all and
if need be, to respond to your verbal command only.
4) Keeping nails trimmed short.
***We understand that the decision to or not to declaw can have moral and ethical feelings surrounding it. In general,
our feeling is that if you absolutely will not be able to tolerate a cat that ever scratches and would choose to
declaw it later in life should it start scratching (for instance, 10 years down the road when you get new furniture),
then it might be better for everyone to have it done at 6 months of age. This way, you won't be stressed and your
cat's surgical recovery will likely be quicker. Or, if you decide not to declaw your cat at 6 months old and your
cat becomes a "scratcher" later in its life, then an alternative to declawing should more heavily be
considered since the recovery from a declaw is generally longer and more painful for older cats.
***Please remember that physical punishment (swatting with hand/newspaper or thumping it on the nose) to get it
to stop scratching, and even to stop biting or playing rough should never be used. This often only causes the cat
to become fearful and sometimes even provokes aggression.
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Hints About Litter Box Training
ü Try to use the same type of litter kitten/cat is used to, often unscented litters are preferred by felines.
ü Place litter box in a private, quiet area that is also easily accessible.
ü Try to keep plants off limits since soil is similar to litter and may be preferred.
ü When training a new kitten, you should try to watch the kitten at all times at first. When it starts to
sniff, gently place it in the litter box. Reward your cat (with verbal praise, physical contact, and, if you choose,
a small food treat) when it goes to the litter box and for scratching and sniffing in it. Doubly reward it when
it eliminates in the box.
ü Have two litter pans available. Add 1-2 additional pans per each additional cat.
ü Some cats prefer covered litter boxes, other cats can fell "trapped" in them. Usually if started
from the outset, the cat will accept them. A covered litter box helps with cats that have poor "aim"!
ü You MUST keep the box clean or your pet will not want to use it (just like you don't like using a bathroom
that is not clean). Scoop the box at least daily and completely clean it weekly. Try not to use a cleanser with
a strong odor as some cats won't use a litter box if a "detergent" odor remains.
ü Avoid making sudden changes in litter brand and type of litter box.
ü Make the area of your cat's litter pan a safe haven. Do not scold the cat, give medications, or do anything
your cat does not generally like (nail trims, brushing) near its litter pan.
ü When a mistake occurs, clean the area right away with an enzyme cleaner (such as Simple Solution or Eliminodor)
to remove the odor so your cat will not be drawn to the area again.
ü If "mistakes" repeatedly occur, your pet may have a medical problem and should be brought in for
an exam.
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Basic Training
When sitting with your kitten (watching TV), play with its ears, paws, toes, etc. This will make your cat used
to being handled so that it will better tolerate maneuvering the ears and paws for cleaning and nail trims..
If your kitten is mouthy (nipping, playing rough), you can gently place your hand around its muzzle to close it
and say "No bite". Replace the object the cat is inappropriately chewing on with an appropriate chew
toy. If the inappropriate biting/chewing continues, you should stop interacting and contact with the cat completely
by giving it a "time-out". The kitten should be put in a quiet room by itself. Be sure this area is NOT
the same area you expect it like to be in while you are away nor in a common family area where you expect it to
spend a lot of time with the family. Leave the cat for a short period of time (2-3 minutes) and then bring him/her
back with you and try again. There is NEVER a place for physical punishment .
Positive reinforcement and praise are key to the bonding process between you and your new pet. We cannot stress
enough that physical punishment (swatting with hand/newspaper or flicking it on the nose) will only cause your
pet to be fearful of you and possibly even cause aggression. Positive reinforcement, on the other hand, will make
your pet a better life-long companion.
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Wellness Testing
We may recommend doing bloodwork on your pet during the course of its lifetime. In younger animals these tests
can serve to diagnose disease, congenital abnormalities, and also can serve to establish an individual baseline
of normal values for your pet. In the older animal, these tests will help us evaluate your pet's organ function,
find diseases before they cause permanent organ damage and/or clinical symptoms, and ensure your pet will be able
to tolerate medication. Performing bloodwork before anesthesia is recommended because we can then detect underlying
kidney and/or liver disease that might lead to complications during or after anesthesia. Since the kidneys and
liver are the primary organs involved in metabolizing anesthetics, it is important to check their function BEFORE
anesthesia is administered.
Basic blood tests can provide insight into the function of the internal organs. These are called blood chemistry
profiles. The other type of test, called a complete blood count or hematology test, provides information about
the blood cells themselves.
Specific details about blood testing and specific tests recommended can be discussed with you at the time such
tests are suggested for your pet.
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General Things to Know
Ø Advil (ibuprofen), onions, onion salt, chocolate, and Tylenol (acetaminophen) are toxic to animals
Ø A normal temperature is 100.5 - 103
Ø Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is severely toxic to animals. It tastes sweet so they like drinking it!
Ø The theory of wet vs. dry nose is just an old-wives tale.
Ø Cats normally sleep16 hours every day.
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